Life Is A Turnaround
Leaving In A Tardy (plane)
Life Is A Task
A journal of time spent in Barbados
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This is probably the best time to be on vacation in Barbados. The madness that is Crop Over is coming to its climax as the wukking up has become frenzied and the mud is just ready for the lead up to Kadooment. What better time to head to the beach and just get away from the mad and maddening crowd. So, pack the car (with a small bag of swimming trucks, tee shirts and underwear) and hit the road. It was a better journey than I expected as I reached Burke's beach in just 10 minutes. I never believed that Carlyle Bay could be so mysterious. I had seen the houses as I walk the sand but to see the sand as I watched from the patio was intriguing. Now, I could gawp at the joggers and walkers and exercising people; with their dogs and iPods, and radios; with plastic bags and umbrellas, too.
But heavier food was just two minutes away at the Jamaican eatery, Kingston 10. Yea, man. Stew peas and rice and salt pig tail. Callaloo and salt fish and green banana and yam and sweet potato and dasheen. Stewed pork and rice and peas. Steamed snapper and pumpkin rice. Whooi! Too much of that.
and roast marshmallows.
I'm not afraid to say that I have only a shallow understanding of Barbadians. You cannot say you know a people just from the contacts you have with those people, and two years is no time to get to know a lot of people. I've been married a total of 30 plus years and understanding is still a work in progress.
of life has gone. People do not want to grow sugar but they do not want to grow food either. So, when I walk the beach and see men casting lines and pulling in one or two fish, I see something very normal, but now also very rare.
is not something that Barbados has in abundance. I do not mean the ability to work, but the presence of factories and places that make many things. The discipline of modern life is often reflected in the rhythm of the factory. But, much of Caribbean life is based on a different pattern and is much looser. Part of that, I have often argued, is a reaction to the days of being 'yoked' to a plough or consigned to hours in the sun working cane (or cotton) as slaves. People go to the other extreme and taking it is easy is now our right. After 400 years, people deserve a break. But, the modern world does not buy into that. A corollary of the easy life approach comes from no sense of obligation to be at work. I have heard some stories about people needing to take time out of the office but not seeing that there was an obligation to advice their employer or supervisor (just not coming back after lunch, say) or taking umbrage that they needed to verify the reasons for the time off. I spoke to a manager of a gas station some weeks ago who explained how a bit of rain or a heavy night would mean that his staff did not show up for work. But this is institutionalised: how can the frequent radio announcements that parents need to come to collect children from schools because there is no water or some hazard make sense with their implied acceptance that people can just leave their places of work and deal with this 'situation'?
ought to offer solace. It is not the harsh environment of a granite covered wasteland, or the mind boggling emptiness of say the Sahara Desert. But do people feel soothed?
So too is the van parked on the street, dispensing meals to those who are in the adjacent buildings. Sitting down and eating during the day should not be a luxury. There is a good reason why most of France and Spain come to a grinding halt in the middle of the day. People go for lunch--home, restaurant, wherever. For a good two hours, too, and then for a nap. I tend to have my meals at home. Whenever I go out to eat I only see people walking around with polystyrene containers in white plastic bags. Those sitting down are either tourists and expats (by that I mean white Europeans) with very few locals (by that I mean black people). The only exceptions I have seen tend to be at places like Ackee Tree or Kingston 10, but both are small. Roads are not packed at lunchtime, which suggests that people have not moved to go and eat; most places do not have canteens on their premises. By contrast, come lunch time in Jamaica and you cannot move on the streets. True, many people are in a patty shop or in Island Grill. I was shocked to find Muster's. Not for its food but for how few people seem to go there. It's like taking lunch in the British Library, it's so quiet.
said on CNN last night that Gates was arrested because he would not kiss butt. Wolf Blitzer did not know what to say. "But, butt,...". Do watch the link http://www.wikio.com/video/1462323. He also called America a "stupid country". OMG! Sarah Palin also got tazered.
Gates too should apologize to the officer for anything he said that might have caused offence. POTUS does not need to apologize but could do so to show that he is above pettiness. The caller should get an apology too from the police for having been misrepresented and ignored.
Hunger is a vital reaction that should not be ignored. Even as a metaphor, it is important to follow it where the mental stomach leads. One of things that is most lacking about working at home is the ability to exchange freely with others on whatever topic is at hand. As an office maven, I was not one who spent a lot of time on the phone. From the earliest time, I was more inclined to walk to find my colleague and we would sit and thrash out some issue. It was good not least because in a world where being sedentary is easier than being active, it offered some limited exercise. When at the Bank of England I had to march through several corridors and up three flight of steep marble steps, a day's work was also a day's work out. We also had open plan office set ups, which made it easier to have lots of face-to-face contact. At the IMF, people tended to be more of the Dilbert type, happier in their cubicles and talking at a distance. Why talk to someone when you can leave them a note? That was made worse once the computer and e-mail really took off. We are all still suffering for that.
I asked Miss G if she had anything sweet for afters. "I got mangers. I grew up with them." I declined, but told her to be ready for me to eat mangers on Friday. In return, I would bring her guavas. "No need for that. I go' bring you mangers anyway. You coming for barbecue tomorra evening?" My calendar was free but her ladyship hinted that plans were in the works. We talked a bit more about how people just seem to be downright unhappy with their lot. I explored an idea I had. "Do you think that if life had stayed simpler things would be better now?" I expanded and argued that people really had not adjusted to office work and government work and helping tourists. But they did not want to stay growing sugar. The mistake had been that agriculture was not developed to break the link with slavery and new and exciting crops grown, so that agriculture could be seen as a lively livelihood. Miss G did not really know. "I run my shop and I happy. I go bring mangers tomorra." I did not want to argue, nor did I need to have a long discussion. She was right.
Don't get me wrong. The trading business keeps my head rolling around, especially when it seems that those who've been doing this for longer and much better, also seem to have no clue why things are moving the way they are. But, the adage is "the trend is your friend". Yet, ever wanting to be different, I keep going against trends: markets go up, markets go down. The real experts have tried and failed many times to call the bottom of the stock markets and they failed. They tried to call the top, and again they failed. Markets move in waves and living on an island, I see plenty of those so I am using my sense of the sea's rhythm to help me out. Right.
Think I am joshing you. Look at Mauritius: where is the Dodo? Look at the Caribbean: where are the Arawaks and Caribs. Look at Latin America: where are the Incas and Mayans? Think I'm joking? Look at the spread of Swine Flu and see who it is that is having the highest incidence and where testing is going to be standard (see today's Mirror): Britain's Chief Medical Officer said "Swine flu poses the biggest challenge for the NHS in a generation." When you see those BA flights, think "Beware. Assassins." I warn you!
Last December, we went to one of those highfalutin social events at Sandy Lane--a wine tasting. Through the various connections that we had built up, we had received an invitation and given that we like our wines, we took it up and rolled in a few Caribbean friends too. Our view: enough of these events just being the preserve of European expats. We were approached at the entrance by a lady who was on her own and admitted that she knew nothing about wine so wondered if she could tag along with us. Fine, we said, and so we traipsed around tasting, grading and sampling some really good wine, and enjoyed nice tidbits of food (including some very good roast beef). Along the way, the lady let us know that she was a teacher of English and Art, and also an artist. We exchanged email addresses and phone numbers. After a brief confirmation of each other's addresses by message, we exchanged Christmas and New Year's greetings and then had no more contact. That is until she sent an invitation last week for an opening she was due to have at Queen's Park Gallery, scheduled for this evening.
Don't get me wrong, those who support culture are to be praised, I had just wondered where the nationals were with their support. Now, I had seen some.
as were Jacqui's sister, Patricia, and Jacqui's good friend from childhood, Andrea Wells. On hand to steer the proceedings was a French-Canadian lady, Denyse Menard-Greenidge, acting as the guest curator. We were handed some refreshing drinks (rum punch for me, thanks) and the speeches were thankfully brief, ending with a few words and poems from Jacqui.
which she prepared over the past two years. Unfortunately, her well-famed work on leather was only displayed in pictures.
It's officially the silly season. When the media and even bloggers find very little to write about and some are even tempted to just make up stories to get people interested. But, Barbados is trying to get a handle of some serious silliness.
and the pictures and stories on Facebook are very interesting.
Then one of the dinner guests with me last night was wondering what to expect as her teenage daughters had gone to the "Blocko Street Party" (due to be held in the street between TimeOut and the Dover playing field, for a street party from 7pm to 1am; music by Iwer George and others). She left for home nervously at around 11pm and I hope did not spend the night chewing her nails.
and of all things on health reform (see NY Times report). I listened for a few moments and took a few pictures. As the press report notes, "The new state budget in Massachusetts eliminates health care coverage for some 30,000 legal immigrants to help close a growing deficit, reversing progress toward universal coverage just as the US Congress looks to the state as a model for overhauling the nation’s health care system." The critics' main plaint is that the cut, which would save an estimated US$130 million, unfairly targets taxpaying residents.
I have not lived in the USA for a while, but get enough opportunities to visit for more than a few days. I am amazed at myself, however, that I manage to do that after the horror stories I sometimes have to live getting into that country. This trip was a bit worse than usual. Headed to Boston, to see off the 'trouble and strife' on a family cruise to celebrate her parents' 50th wedding anniversary, we headed through the 'hall of horrors', aka Miami Airport. Everything was fine from the time we left Barbados, and everything went wrong as soon as we landed in MIA.
No, you took the subway ('The T' in Boston...that's a pun, I think) and then walk 10 minutes with the large, swaying crowds.
I had envisaged having my body and others pressed together and bound by sweat and a clash of cologne, perfume, and deodorants. Instead, I found neatly laid out chairs. This is a theatre. I looked puzzled at my Bajan bud. "Where's the tent?" I asked. "This is it," he laughingly replied. He had to soothe me with a beer. We found one of the few seats still available: the 'tent' was due to get going at 8pm and here we were at 7.30 and the place was full. I wonder about Bajans: so totally English for timeliness. But, who should be sitting directly in front of us? My Guyanese Calyspo-holics! I laughed with them and asked whether their papers were in order, or if they had had anyone knock on their door at 3am. "Oh, yeah! But we told them to just f**k off." We talked a bit about fete-ing and they again tried to get me to commit to following some truck for a bit of wuk. "I'll get back to you," I stammered.
But who listens to me?
If you have not been on Planet Barbados for the past few weeks, you will not have known that the big issue is no longer Crop Over, or the 11-plus exams, or West Indies cricket, or Michael Jackson's death, or Wayne and Colleen Rooney's beach holiday, or my step-daughter's assault on the island with her over-energetic but really fun-loving friends. THE issue has been immigration.July 4+: After Caricom HOGs meeting, announce that the new policy will involve an amendment to amnesty for certain Caricom non-nationals with effect from August 1, giving details (this is the same as the announcement in May with a June 1 start date).
My nagging question is why, with a long period of ineffective control over illegal migrants to Barbados, it was necessary to precede the general policy announcement with the declaration of an amnesty, whose context was not clear? Moreover, is/was the 2 months difference really so important and why?
Some commentators have pointed to possible sinister motives behind the previous government's approach to illegal immigration, intimating that it was to “teach Bajan voters a lesson”, intimation a plan to help build a 'permanent voting majority' from the migrant community's voting (see "Is There More To Unchecked Migration Than Meets The Eye?" on Barbados Underground). Well, whatever the reality of such contentions, the plot seemed a bit botched up because the the previous government are previous not current--they lost the election.
Some commentators are arguing that the current government has little to offer in these recessionary times and have drawn water at the well of populist sentiment and pulled out 'the race card'. It's a card played strategically and frequently by politicians and has the great effect of neutralising its opponents, who immediately seem 'unpatriotic' and 'the ones who got us into this mess'. Any counter arguments from other countries naturally sound like 'their' voices telling 'us' what to do. But the card played is really 'the jack of spades' (and for those who do not know how to read Tarot cards, it could be time to learn): it's a card that creates conflict and division, while holding unexpressed deception; it's sometimes seen as a 'golden apple' but is a true 'apple of discord'.
Sometimes, the writing genie is on vacation, but the reading and listening muses are still at work. Some gems just from a week, when lots passed the corners of my eyes.