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Dennis Jones is a Jamaican-born international economist, who has lived most of the time in the UK and USA, and latterly in Guinea, west Africa. He moved back to the Caribbean in 2007. This blog contains his observations on life on this small eastern Caribbean island, as well as views on life and issues on a broader landscape, especially the Caribbean and Africa.

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Sunday, November 04, 2007

Peace and tranquility: A weekend at Ottley's


My wife had a brilliant idea recently. Actually, all of my wife's ideas are brilliant by definition. She suggested that whenever she has a business trip to another island we would try to make a long weekend and visit as a family. So, here I am in St. Kitts, at one of my favourite places, Ottley's Plantation Inn (http://www.ottleys.com/, see image of the Great House). So, to put my last two blogs into perspective, I have been on vacation, but of course that is no reason to not blog; in fact it can be easier and there are fewer distractions. Nestled in the shadow of a volcano, it is really easy to write and bliss to feel and be far away from the maddening crowd.
We last visited Ottley's seven years ago, before our latest child was born, and had a truly romantic few days. Now the "little one" (who was not conceived at Ottley's) gets a chance to visit before either of her older sisters. Ottley's is the personification of peace and relaxation. Its vast expanse (35 acres) usually ensures that you are not cheek-by-jowl with other residents. This time we are staying in one of the cottages and that offers even more seclusion.


Ottley's history is well documented on its web site and I only lament that again someone from North America or Europe has come to the Caribbean and put value into things that we were ready to neglect. Not all black people are comfortable with things that make money out of the slavery history. But I believe it is a part of our history and we need to make sure that people understand the context of that time in and make sure that what exists is not just discarded because of painful memories.


Ottley's is famous for its food. Not just the style but also the quality and value for money. Not only is everything beautifully set out but it always tastes very good. The setting of the restaurant in the remnants of the the sugar boiling house works very well.


What we have really enjoyed this trip is being able to take advantage of this tranquility with a young child. We have explored together the rain forest, which is a part of the property. Perhaps we will come back in a few years and see how the coconuts and mango seeds that were sprouting have turned into good sized trees. We did not see any wild hogs this time, but did see a lot of green monkeys. I have enjoyed walking around the property before sunrise, when not a living soul--person or animal is stirring.


Environmental issues are being tackled by the people running Ottley's. They use energy saving bulbs on the property. Solar panels for water heating had been set on roofs but after 18 years needed to be replaced. Now there is the idea of putting them at ground level and disguising them with shrubs. Solar powered air conditioning is being explored and a Peurto Rican company has indicated it could supply units that would halve the cost of providing this amenity. Wind power has been considered but there are noise and aesthetic issues to deal with.

Many of the staff have been at the hotel between 5-19 years and they apparently love working there. They become friends of all the visitors, and love to please and praise the hotel. "What is the food like?" will get a response from them of "It's Ottley's".


The inn keepers are very friendly and always ready to share a quip and even a long conversation. Marty Keusch is a really funny guy and possibly the happiest horticulturalist in the world. He has a plan to plant royal palms all the way from the hotel to the airport. That would be some project.


Ottley's is not for every one and for that I am grateful. I do not seek beach and sun. I love the nature of the Caribbean and love the views and climate we have that is sometimes ideally set in the high 70s Fahrenheit. I love the sound of rain falling on the leaves of red ginger plants. I love to hear the breeze coursing through palms. I love the colours. I love the Caribbean and Ottley's presents it very well.

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