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A journal of time spent in Barbados
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My wife's family is extraordinary, not only in a Caribbean context but even seen more broadly. It has been at the heart of many important changes in The Bahamas and stands with heads held proudly. It came from humble origins. It was instrumental in forming one of the major Anglican Churches in Nassau, where the family still worships. The family has had three generations who have studied at university, and all are still living; the next generation looks set to follow this tradition. My wife's uncle (Sir Arthur Foulkes, whose father was Jamaican) was a founding father of a major political party, which is now governing again; one of his sons and a son-in-law are both members of the current government Cabinet. Ironically, none of my wife's immediate family has successfully walked on the political stage. Her father is a lawyer and her mother was a nurse. Her brother is now the Director of Public Prosecutions, which is as close to the government and political process as they have come, if you exclude canvassing at elections. Her three sisters work variously in insurance, cancer treatment, and finance.
which have been exploited for many years by the Morton Salt Company to produce sea salt and table salt. A grand-uncle of my wife's (who died recently) was in charge of the National Park on that island and did much to develop and protect the habitat of about 80,000 West Indian, pink, flamingos, who get their colour from eating the shrimps that feed in briny lagoons on the island. Inagua's capital, Matthew Town, is understandably small and quiet.
Trading has opened my eyes to things that I understood in part about financial markets but rarely experienced fully. I now respect the power of market forces more than any amount of text book study of economics could explain.
New Year's Day is routinely a holiday, but in Asia many markets close until January 4. What that all means is that conditions in the markets during such periods are really abnormal; most trading desks are barely manned and it's hard to know if movements, which tend to be exaggerated and in one direction, are really sustainable. However, if you get on the right side of deals you can do well.
The Euro, which I had thought several weeks ago would move to become a "safe haven" currency instead of the US dollar, seemed to develop that role this week. For me that was a little frustrating because I had anticipated such a change a few weeks ago and bought Euro against the US dollar only to see the Euro wilt against the US dollar. So, when I saw the Euro edging up from the mid 1.435 against the dollar I said to myself that 1.44 would be the limit; but up it soared after Christmas Day and ended the week well over 1.4720 (see chart). A huge move in a few days. Again, you can't look back and say "What if...?" You make a decision and stick with it.
I write because I have ideas I want to share. For a very long time those ideas rested inside my head or escaped in conversations. Now I put down my thoughts "on cyber paper". Various people have urged me to write a book and I started that venture a few months ago, initially chronicling my life. It was much easier to start having already had several months of writing this blog. The blog was not meant to be like training wheels but it has proved useful in that way.
I know that a good portion of my readers are family and friends, but there are many readers whom I do not know at all except through their comments. Some of the unknowns are fellow bloggers, but most appear to be simple readers. I hope that all of you spread the word and that I can reach out to a wider audience.
Scary food for thought. The video games industry is trying to grow the interactive games business. That is what experts in this area told me this morning on BBC radio. What this means is getting more games to appeal to a wider audience; the existing players are near their limits. Selling to kids has gone nearly as far as it can in developing games based around sports and various forms of combat. Most parents have been driven totally insane in the process by the waves of demands from children as innovations move on.
What does widening the market mean? The expert said that growth needs "building games around personal interests". "OK," said the interviewer, "I'm interested in opera. What kind of game can you build for me?" The expert was caught off guard and came up with some weak ideas: training opera singers for a concert (come on!), games that build around the stories of some operas (more interesting), or being the conductor (those interested are already wielding their batons, real of mythical).I have spoken or tried to speak (or sign) all of the languages below at some time in my life! (If you did not realize it, Breton, Cornish and Welsh are related.) Thanks to my African friends who introduced me to some of their tongues. Thanks to my Norwegian "cousins" for visiting the Caribbean and also allowing me to meet up again centuries later. Thanks for an absence of fear in trying to say at least "Hello" and "Thank you" whereever I travel. Thanks to my parents for never letting me think that the colour of my skin had anything to do with anything except the colour of my skin. Thanks to all those people I have met who had never met a black man before and now know that we are a lot like them.
The world is really small and languages are one of its barriers. Let's try to get over them little by little with seasonal greetings (see a much longer list of Christmas greetings that will help).
American Sign Language

Arawak - Aba satho niw jari da'wisida bon
Breton - Nedeleg laouen na bloav ezh mat
Cantonese - Seng Dan Fai Lok, Sang Nian Fai Lok
Carib - Sirito kypoton ra'a
Cornish - Nadelik looan na looan blethen noweth
Creole/Seychelles - Bonn e Erez Ane
Dutch - Vrolijk Kerstfeest en een Gelukkig Nieuwjaar!
Estonian - Rõõmsaid Jõulupühi ja Head uut aastat
French - Joyeux Noël et Bonne Année!
German - Fröhliche Weihnachten und ein glückliches Neues Jahr!
Greek - Kala Christougenna Ki'eftihismenos O Kenourios Chronos
Hausa - Barka da Kirsimatikuma Barka da Sabuwar Shekara!
Igbo - Ekelere m gi maka Keresimesi na ubochi izizi afo ozo
Irish - Nollaig Shona Dhuit
Italian - Buon Natale e Felice Anno Nuovo
Japanese - Shinnen omedeto. Kurisumasu Omedeto
Latin - Pax hominibus bonae voluntatis
Latvian - Prieci'gus Ziemsve'tkus un Laimi'gu Jauno Gadu!
Malagasy - Arahaba tratry ny Krismasy
Norweigan/Nynorsk - eg ynskjer hermed dykk alle ein god jul og godt nyttår
Norweigan/Bokmål - God Jul og Godt Nyttår
Polish - Wesolych Swiat i Szczesliwego Nowego Roku.
Russian - Pozdrevlyayu s prazdnikom Rozhdestva i s Novim Godom
Spanish - Feliz Navidad y Próspero Año Nuevo
Swahili - ºKrismas Njema Na Heri Za Mwaka Mpyaº
Turkish - Noeliniz Ve Yeni Yiliniz Kutlu Olsun
Welsh - Nadolig LLawen a Blwyddyn Newydd Dda
Yoruba - E ku odun, e ku iye' dun!

Christmas is essentially a religious festival to celebrate the birth of Jesus, but its true meaning has been lost for many people. In the Caribbean the strong influence of Christianity has kept the religious element to the forefront of lives in this region. Whatever else happens at Christmas it really revolves around the religous celebration. It is a time for giving and receiving which takes on a some special shape where I spend Christmas, in Nassau.
Cooking is shared. Several turkeys and hams are cooked in different homes. My mother-in-law makes macaroni pie. One of her sisters is in charge of peas and rice and baked beans (guarding a family recipe from her father). A third sister, who bakes for a living, is in charge of the array of desserts. We all take charge of eating as much as we can.
Christmas is special, and very much so in the Caribbean. Not only do we enjoy warm weather when most of the rest of the world is cold, but we also have a way of making the season festive. For most of the past 10 years I have spent the season with my in-laws in Nassau; my wife has never spent Christmas anywhere else. The Bahamas has its unique way of celebrating Christmas and New Year, with the annual street parade-carnival, Junkanoo (see official web site).
Of course shopping and gift giving take on enormous proportions during the season. But generosity is not limited to family and friends. Many of us will take the time to remember those who have been helpful, even in simply doing their jobs like garbage collectors. Some have developed plans to help families who are needy and have little to enjoy at Christmas.
We have had the good fortune of being able to take a vacation of at least two weeks every Christmas, and it has been a great time for decompression; our employers have had to understand that Christmas is the most important holiday for us and just deal with it. This year I will have been "off" for a month; taking time off is much easier when you work from home. I spent two weeks in Jamaica with my family (with whom I plan to spend Christmas next year), and will now spend the rest of the time in Nassau.
Maggie is a flat-faced Persian cat who belongs to one of my Bahamian sisters-in-law. I met this furry feline for the first time a few days ago and now know the type of car, if not breed, that inspired the cartoon character, “Garfield” created by Jim Davis in 1978 (see official web site); Garfield is a tabby.
Maggie has all the characteristics that make cats so despicable: slothful, needy, fuzzy, destructive (especially of cloth furniture and Christmas trees). She has not yet shown any anthropomorphic talents but if she does I will include some of her comments.
I don't really like cats but they seem to be attracted to me. My first daughter, Eleanor, has had a cat and dog almost all her life. My wife had one when I met her; the cat was traumatized when my wife-to-be moved home, ran away as soon as we arrived at the new place and was never seen again. Rhian will get a cat after our Christmas holidays; he has been picked out and is being weaned. So, I will have to get used to having a cat in my daily life again in 2008. I hope he and Maggie will provide good blog material.
It's ironic that in this morning's Gleaner there is an article about restoring the full charm of Kingston's downtown (see article). As I drove through the area on my way to the airport last Thursday I did what I often do on this drive. I reminisced about what I remembered of my early childhood. You see, I lived downtown in the mid-1950s, in an area close to the waterfront, near the prison. The street where I used to live, Vauxhall Avenue, is now full of dilapidated properties. It looks like one of those US inner city shells that have been abandoned by the middle classes after the race riots. None of the earlier charm is there. Yet, we have not had people flee because of race, but economic interests have surely shaped the capital. Most of the older structures are still there. You can walk past store fronts that take you back to the 1950s but there is no economic activity going on inside the stores. Property owners and government have somehow conspired to blight this whole area, both its corporate and residential sides, which if restored would be one of the most visible signs that Jamaica wants to be a better country. Instead of the bland concrete and glass of New Kingston, I want to see the stone and wood of Old Kingston.
If you have children you will have experienced the ease with which they make friends. A friend for a child is someone with whom to play. So Mums and Dads are naturally friends. Anyone who does not offer an immediate rejection or give off bad vibes is also a potential friend. I love to watch Rhian “make friends”.
At the Norman Manley Airport last Thursday friendship making was in full force. Another little girl, aged about 6, was sitting near us with her mother. She had a Dora the Explorer roll-on bag from which she took out paper and pencils. Rhian siddled up to her and asked if she could draw too. In no time, the two girls were happily colouring on the same sheet of paper.
Then Rhian started some reciprocal behaviour and took out the bright colouring pens from her back-pack, and the girls got into more colouring, this time being fascinated by the patterns coming through the back of the paper. Along walked another girl, aged about 5. “Can I do some colouring with you?” she asked. “Sure” was the natural reply, and the new entrant ran off to get permission from her mother before coming back to make a lovely threesome. And so they played for about an hour; all flights were delayed by about an hour so this was a blessing.
The friends began to break up as the flights got ready to leave. The last arrival was the first to depart—somewhat unhappily as her mother unceremoniously came to take her, and to the disgust of the other two girls never even acknowledged them or asked if their friend could leave.
Really! Rhian recoiled from the mother—a bad vibes person—and had to be reassured before going back to play with her first friend. We too soon had to leave when boarding started for our flight.
As usual the parents barely got to meet each other. We did not get down on the floor and start colouring too. Adults make friends more slowly than children; I don't know at what point we lose spontaneity over friendship. As we get older we develop “agendas” so making friends is part of that; friends offer advantages that we cannot otherwise get. So friendships need more maneuvering and developing. We think about relationships, asking questions about why someone is appearing to be nice. That gets more complicated when the two genders are involved. As a father who has spent a lot of time with my children I know that I'm still an oddity because parenting is still often seen as “mothering”. A father or mother starting a conversation around their children can easily be surrounded by some sexual friction, real, or imaginary.
It's funny though that when thrown into an alien situation as we have been recently when based in another country on assignment friendships can happen more spontaneously. We now have lots of really good friends from our three years in Guinea and a smaller number from our ten months in Barbados. And we came to be good friends by just taking each other as we are. We seem to operate without agendas and enjoy casual socializing, which helps us bond better. We don't get to know each other very well in terms of full information about each others lives; we get to know some intimate snippets, enough to feel connected. This spontaneity can only work if you are open to it, so many adults and children will find themselves in new social settings and feel unable to make friends, then tending to limit contact and so end up having few friends. We can see this when children have to change schools and of course we adults experience it when we move to new places.
I like the way that children make friends most of all because they don't feel the need for personal details. No need to say, “Hello. My name is...” before you get down to play, and no problems just leaving, with no need for “See you again.” With socialization we adults feel the need to have that detail, so we are going to try to exchange addresses or phone numbers and of course we have to know names. That takes the fun out of it, and losing the sense of fun is sadly part of growing up.
Well my lunatic friend helped me with its movement below parity with the US dollar, which was dramatic (see chart). I went back to the loonie as I sensed that it was indeed gaining its legs. I saw that after the US dollar rally of the past few weeks, the Canadian dollar was grinding around, almost aimlessly hovering around 1.003-1.008and then reversing toward parity with the US dollar with a certain regularity and each test lower was getting closer to the figure and the resistance less each time. So, I joined the sellers on Wednesday evening, at about US$ 1.003 to the Canadian dollar, hoping that it would fall initially to some 0.9980 and then 0.9940 and hopefully to 0.9920 before moving toward 0.9840.

The intial move worked very well and came around 6.30 on Thursday morning and my three lots netted me US$ 140, as the rate fell from 1.003 to around 0.9980. As I was due to travel for almost a whole day I decided to leave trading this pair alone. With travel completed on Thursday evening it was somewhat frustrating that the Internet connection was down at my in-laws. I was not able to review the market until Friday morning, by when I had missed the chance to get back in above 0.9975. When I was able to trade (on a somewhat slow and erratic connection) I managed to get in again when the rate was 0.9950, sold it again and made several one lot trades to net $20 several times, as the rate edged through 0.993. Better than expected Canadian economic data released today initially led to little market reaction then a reassessment suggested that future interest rate decreases would be less likely and the exchange rate continued its fall. Oil prices rose during the day, which also helped the Canadian dollar strengthen.
The rest of the day was a struggle with support around 0.992, which was stiff and is not completely broken, though the rebounds were contained to about 0.9933. Perhaps because the attack came at the end of the trading week and just ahead of the holidays, follow through was limited. For much of Friday afternoon the rate hovered between 0.9915-0.9933, and closed below 0.992, which should imply further downward movement. I hope that next week starts off well and my target rate of 0.9845 is reached. That would do nicely before Christmas.
In the market rate changes are not in straight lines, but often in waves. I have not studied wave theory but that could be something for private study soon; I will have to get academic and learn about “Elliott wave analysis”. After the initial major break below parity mentioned above the rate tried to get back up to parity and had I been smart I could have foreseen that and taken the bet on the increase. But I did not.
I have ridden waves several ways, including taking profit as an intermediate target is reached, letting the rate bounce back and getting in again. That risks missing the critical breakthrough so I tend to do it with caution, feeling that it's better to stay in at the initial position and maybe see such opportunities pass. With hindsight one can always review the wisdom. Hindsight is of course 20:20.
The other aspect that I am learning and will focus on more is a good lot size and even in a cautious trade the initial positions should always be two lots. That way one can opt to ride through waves by taking profit on one position and regaining the other position after a reverse movement; that works well if the subsequent retracement is dramatic and one could get in near the starting price.
I am still not sure if I can make a living out of trading but I have made $1000 in December. That is a return of about 40 percent, which is an impressive rate but I do not see that as sustainable; though I had targeted trying to make about 1-2 percent a day. Making $1000 a month would not be bad though.
Another lesson I have learned several times now is that online trading is very tricky when technology is not helping. Poor Internet connections or slow computers can lead to missed opportunities or at worst losses. For that reason alone setting stop-loss limits as soon as a trade is executed is really important, just in case the connection drops or computer freezes a and one is left totally exposed. I have tended to trade on two platforms simultaneously and found that this provides some protection as at least one platform tends to be running at any time. (It's sometimes astonishing to see the different speed with with each platform refreshes and if one is not paying attention, then deals can be opened or closed at the wrong rate.) But I am enjoying the challenge of trading “on the move”. Other people's computers are set up differently and I have had a devil of a time getting things set up as I would have them at home. Fortunately, all of that tweaking has not been too costly. But the essential element is the connection.
I plan to trade little over the Christmas period, hoping that the market also decides to take a break through the first week of January. It should be a time for friends and family so I will aim to respect that.
PS: I was heartened to read one of the analytical comments from Todd Gordon, Currency Strategist at Gain Capital (with whom I trade) in his “Strategy of the Day” for December 21, who analyzed averaging down, i.e. building positions when the price moves against you. I have used this technique several times to good effect, once really testing the nerves as with one of the recent repeated Canadian dollar 100+ point reversals against the US$ (see blog). Of course the practice can go sour as the rate moves further than some are prepared to risk as in the above example, or never really turns around, at which point you have to eat a large loss.
The technique worked nicely this week as I traded pound sterling/US dollar while the rate fell from 2.03 toward and then below 2, netting about $210 on two trades. He points out rightly that this technique must be part of a plan, within a correctly assessed strategy. Little by little my strategic sense is getting better; I know that the experts are not always right and twice recently when following their assessments, against my own judgement, I lost not so heavily but let's say unnecessarily. I wont pin blame on them for that, but it is important to remember that we are all fallible.
Thank you all you drug smugglers and petty criminals who have tainted the reputation to every decent law-abiding Jamaican. I wish you a very unmerry Christmas and a pox-ridden New Year. There are many decent people who readily advocate the kind of brutal punishment that is still practised in some Muslim countries for petty crimes and crimes against the person. When I feel shamed of my national heritage because of these criminals I can understand such sentiments.
The irony is that The Bahamas is no Eden. Like Jamaica, it too is scourged as a transit point by drug-running problems, and is famous for “night fishing” from Bimini or other islands close to Florida. Several major drug dealers are employing expensive lawyers to help them avoid having to face full justice.
The Bahamas is also Sodom but does not seem to know it. This is a country obsessed with people's sexual behaviour, where people openly talk about “sweet hearting” (being unfaithful to a partner), yet any sign of sexual misconduct by politicians gets blown into a major issue. Remember Shame (sorry Shane) Gibson and the late Nicole Smith being photographed with the Minister having a close constituency meeting in his office that looked remarkably like a bed? When I arrived last night I saw the sensational tabloid newspaper The Punch headline “MP caught...sexing”. The story is about opposition PLP MP Alfred Gray who had been caught by police euphemistically "in his birthday suit" with a "female companion" who was decidedly not his wife in a church car park close to his home and was outed with front page pictures by the more sedate The Tribune (see latest report). The MP was given a "harsh warning" by the police officers. That makes no sense. Ain't you all got nothing better to do? In Jamaica newspapers don't waste time reporting such rubbish: “We know unnu all a sexin' but a no fiwi bizniz. That is between you and you missus. Why you wan' put dat inna paper?” More of an issue for me would be the fact that this MP is also a deacon at a Methodist Church. What method in his madness? Where is a man like this leading his flock if he is caught under some "other woman'" frock?
Heaven help you in The Bahamas if you are a gay man. The same phobia that engulfs Jamaica is present here too, where there is no tolerance for "sissies" as gays are disparagingly called.
The other sadder side is that here is a country of only about 300,000 people, whose average income is the highest in the English speaking Caribbean, which is showing signs of sliding down a slippery slope of social degradation. It is now being plagued by one the ills that has haunted and shamed Jamaica for decades. Murders and violent crimes are on the rise. The number of murders through mid-December (74) has already exceeded the total for 2006. That translates into a rate per head of population that is half that of Jamaica's, which records 1500 murders a year for its 3 million people, which means that it is lower but still very high. And solutions? “All the politicians are talking is foolishness” my father-in-law rails; he should know as he is a keen observer of international developments and a barrister. So like Jamaica no credible solutions are being proposed to deal with violent crimes, and people continue to pay for this failure with their lives. We'll see for long that will go on.
I may be wrong but it seems to me that The Bahamas has hit a cycle of decadence. The murders is one marker. I put much of the blame on the US, or at least the ease with which Bahamians can get access to goods and services from America, and the extent to which American culture floods the islands. Car ownership in Nassau/New Providence is ridiculously high and Nassau has so few roads that congestion is just horrible every day. Conspicuous consumption is a national sport. The currency is pegged 1:1 with the US dollar so that gives immense spending power. The islands are buoyed by financial services and tourism but barely produce anything so most consumer needs are imported. Any kind of bling is available tax free and Bahamians love name brands! Gucci, Fendi, Ralph Lauren, Rolex, diamonds etc are must haves. It's a consequence of not really having had to work to get rich so there is little understanding of the sacrifices and hard work that are usually needed to get wealthy, as would be the case in Singapore, for example. With a sense of privilege running like water through the veins it's little wonder why many younger men (yes, it's a boy thing) are seeing that the best route to quick richness is through crime and now the stakes are raised because guns are easily obtained.
But look out. The same problem that makes Bahamian Customs officers humiliate Jamaicans is ready to bite them. As Jamaica has seen, once the guns get entrenched in the society it's a devil of a job to get them out again. None of the Christian pleading—and yes, there's a growth industry in that too—is making a jot of difference. In fact, some of the church leaders seem to be contributors to this malaise with their views on how being good Christians gives some rights to being flagrant in all forms of behaviour.
I am going to enjoy my next two weeks in Nassau and look forward to the conch salad and grouper and macaroni pie and turkey and ham and Christmas cake an sky juice. But I will keep my eyes and ears open to sense better how far down the slope The Bahamas has slid.
God's in his heaven but we know that all is not right with the world.
Pickapeppa sauce is as much about Jamaica as reggae music and "Yea man!" This family owned business, which started in 1921, still makes what is for me the best sauce in the world (see company website). They have also the best pepper sauce. About six other products are now on the line, including three varieties of mango sauces. About 90-95 percent of the products are exported, mainly to North America, the UK and central America.People have become cynical about "crime plans", and a new one was launched in early November. Equally, many people have little sympathy for action to cut down ganja (marijuana) plantations such as was reinstated recently; many feel that by giving a livelihood to some in rural areas ganja cultivation has been a factor in minimizing crime.
Some see the government's assessment of the problem as deeply flawed because it will not accept certain "truths" about Jamaica that have a greater bearing on crime that low income and race. In an newspaper letter/article provocatively entitled "Licensing the Jamaican penis" (see link), Kevin O'Brien Chang wrote the following:
"No other country has over 85 per cent of babies born to unmarried mothers and over 50 per cent without registered fathers. No other country routinely discusses parenthood in such relationship neutral terms as 'baby father' and 'baby mother'. No other country so readily accepts absent fatherhood or brings up children so carelessly. And no other country not at war has such a high murder rate.
In "Life Without Father" David Popenoe found the relationship between family structure and crime to be so strong that it erases the relationship between race and low income and crime. Two-parent white and black and rich and poor offspring have far lower incarceration rates than their fatherless peers. But because there are so many more poor and black single-parent children, these make up the bulk of those in U.S. prisons. No doubt the dynamics are the same in Jamaica.
Most fatherless children grow up to be well-adjusted individuals, and only a small percentage become criminals. But almost anything bad that can happen to children occurs with much greater frequency to those from single-parent homes. Nor does fatherlessness affect only children. For men with no family involvement are far more prone to violence than those in settled relationships.
Any society with large concentrations of young, unattached males asks for and gets chaos - two prominent examples being the 19th century American west and the 21st century inner-city ghetto.
All of which boils down to this: If the majority of fathers supported their offspring psychologically and financially, Jamaica would have a much lower murder rate."
Jamaica appears to be an exception to many rules. That related to its attitude toward parenthood is worth considering in the context of dealing with crime. Again, taking words from Kevin O'Brien Chang, he cites the famous anthropologist Bronislaw Malinowski:
"[He] considered the principle of legitimacy a universal sociological law. The crucial determinant of legitimacy in his view was the male's public commitment to his child's mother, not the widely varying concept of legality...What matters is not a piece of paper, but the father's willingness to give emotional and material support to his offspring.
The general societal rule, Malinowski found, was that no child should be brought into the world without an acknowledging father to act as the custodial male link between child and community.
But with more than half our children having no registered fathers, Jamaica appears an exception to this rule. Many of our 'fathers' are mere sperm donors who boast of the number of their children but contribute nothing to their welfare."
From this perspective, crime fighting is a much harder task because instead of blitzing crime it would need changes in social inter-relationships and introduction of laws that bind fathers and empower women and mother with regard to paternity obligations. That's has more banana skin quality for most politicians, who would rather go with the visible "attack" on crimes and criminal themselves, and would be leery of touching a deep-seated social issue of which many may be part.
Highway 2000 looks like a raceway so why not race on it. Only pure luck saved those nearly 30 passengers from a horrible and stupid tragedy. I can't tell if they were begging the drivers to stop or if the drivers had any notion that what they were doing was verging on kamikaze behaviour. They were also "eejyats".
Many places in a country go undiscovered by most people. One of Jamaica's best kept secrets is its south coast, especially the area between the parishes Clarendon and Manchester (which reputedly got some coastline from the parish of St. Elizabeth so that every parish had some seaside).There is nothing remotely glitzy about this south coast area (in marked contrast to the famed north coast), and that may be its saving grace. Life is generally slow to backward and distinctly rural, but that is a plus. Few properties have been barricaded by grills, even shops and bars. Foreign visitors who get this far are intrepid. As my father says, "You na ha' no reason fi drive yah so." So if you end up in this area you are either lost or you have found its secrets. If the latter only whisper about it to your friends.
Men gathered at a bar hut, tucked off the roadside, with its own patch of grass for parking. Some hold hot Red Stripe or Dragon Stout in hand, others hold a glass of white rum, ice and water. Two domino tables resound with the sound of tiles being slammed; then quiet, then tiles are shuffled. Jamaican dominoes has its theatrical style (see link), and one man poses as he crashes his final tile on the table. The dialogue at the tables is fast and furious. " Me nah 'fraid fi you! A no six-blank you gwan beat me! Cho' man, you can' play wid man; you is a bway!" People eye newcomers to see if better partners are arriving: "Watch dat man deh. 'Im dangerous wid de cards dem. Mi did play wid 'im since we dey a school."Some more women arrive. They start to organize: beer is repositioned on the bar shelves, tins of soda are counted. Men's eyes start to drift from the dominoes. Hunger is beginning to bite and a few drift off to get some of the sweet smelling food. There are other distractions: cell phones keep ringing and men break away for more than a few minutes to deal with the calls. The games break up a little.
The bar owner arrives with several cases of beer. He also bring a few car loads more of men. Spirits revive and the afternoon looks set to stretch into night. Those of us with other responsibilities make a move to eat the pork, fish and boiled dumplings; something needs to push down that beer. We make a brief farewell visit to the sugar cane bush at the side of the bar, and leave without fanfare.
The country roads are quiet but we decide to take a shortcut across the land being mined for bauxite. The red earth and white marl make a sharp contrast to the lush fields of yam, corn, and cassava. The roads are pot-holed and we have to drive slowly but we reach the highway again quickly. The town centre is almost empty when we get there; most people are resting at home as the hustle of the week takes its toll. Sleep and rest are now the orders of the day. Sunday is indeed a day for rest.
time to think. I share my thoughts with the barking dogs who run my way, or with the crowing cocks that hail the sunrise, or with the egrets overhead as they wait for cows to come out. I look across the lovely misty hills of the parish of Manchester, which are like a blend of where my parents are from: my mother from the baked savanna of St. Elizabeth and my father from the lush hills of St. Mary. I think I am a lucky guy. I have the chance to spend some time with my father and for him to spend some days with his grand-daughter. She has spent most of the past few weeks in Barbados dressing in sweaters and leggings saying how much she likes cold places. Now she is in a Caribbean place that is really quite cold and is in her element.
We need to learn how to protect our traditions if we hope to build a culture. It is hard because of our size to not be swamped by foreign cultures. But if we can get the world to accept things we do (like reggae music) then we need to find ways to defend what we do. The best way to start that protection is to have them as part of our children's lives. I know my daughter will squirm at the smell and taste of Solomon Gundy, but she will at least have that smell in her memory bank, in the same way that she now has Ovaltine and bulla or the smell of salt fish, dumplings, and scallion.
So, I am going to do my little part to build a culture and expose my children to the traditions before they disappear. That's a small commitment but a big task.
I am back in Jamaica and within moments I am struck again by how a country that is supposedly so poor has a rich vein running through it. Jamaicans are often known to be generous in spirit, and they can be generous in kind. One of our endearing characteristics is for a seller to give something extra to a buyer, what is called "brawta". Webster's online dictionary definites it as "a gift", "above extra", or "bonus". I have played with this notion in Barbados, and found that it's viewed as alien within the business areas that I have encountered. But in Jamaica it is as common as air. Go to the market and you wont be surprised to find some small token added to the basket, whether it's noticeably more than you ordered, or some fruit added to go with the vegetables. But it happens in stores too. The discount is often the brawta, whether this is 5 percent or more. It could also be a bag of sweets for the child accompanying its parents. The point is you get something for spending your money.
Whatever brawta does to the bottom line is often more than recovered by the building of customer loyalty and a willingness to recommend a seller (hotel or restaurant). Tourism offers potentially great opportunities for brawta and I am convinced that it could do wonders for business. Boutique hotels or very small restaurants that I have visited in many countries--who have to do something different than just live off volume--have often shown an understanding that a client is likely to be a return visitor because of the way he/she is treated. The little extras are always remembered, whether it is the complimentary drink on arrival, a vase of fresh flowers each day, a bowl of fruit, the turndown service, free coffee, or being greeted by name. But larger hotel chains (eg some of the Marriott chain) have seen that occupancy rates can be kept high by not gouging visitors to pay for every item and offering something for free--breakfast and internet access are two common examples. So far my experiences in Barbados have not shown me that this is a part of the model being promoted.